View Full Version : air leaks into bag from tank
Chevylayinframe03
01-27-2008, 02:20 AM
I bought a truck two and a half months ago that was already equipped with an air ride system, good because I didn't have to wait to lay my frame, but bad because I don't know how well it's been tooken care of, or where everything is located. The reason I write you is because three weeks into drivin it I was at work one day and I decided to lay the frame on the ground, it sat down like normal but I heard a pop (quiet possibly a rock since the parking lot is gravel and sand) and the front passenger side bag fills up by itself. It still lays frame but there can be no pressure in the tank for it to stay down. If I run my compressor that one bag inflates by itself. When I lower it the one bag either doesnt deflate or deflates and fills up almost to it's previous setting. Yesterday the passenger side rear bag posed the same problem all of a sudden. All I know is I have a Viair 450c compressor, 5-gallon tank, big red valves and they're all mounted up under the bed of my truck. The installation looks very clean and supposedly was professionally installed but could it being on the bottom side make it more possible for water to get in? My guages are air ride technologies and have the individual controls and air pressure for each bag and the left side of the guages has to be somewhere around twenty psi more than the right side for it to be setting level. If you could help me in any way I would deeply appreciate it because I really haven't even got to enjoy my set up.
darren@ridetech.com
01-28-2008, 08:56 AM
It's most likely just a piece of debris stuck on the valve seat. You may need to pull the valve apart and clean it out. May sure that you disconnect all airlines before disassembling the valve.
britt@ridetech.com
01-28-2008, 11:56 AM
One other thing to check is to make sure the valve is not being triggered electronically (like if the wires were hanging under the truck and when you laid out it cut the wires).
This is extrememly simple: unplug the valve connectors. If the wires are unplugged at the valves, we know power is not being supplied to the coils. If the truck still raises with the valves unplugged, it's debris stuck in the valve holding it open.
Chevylayinframe03
02-25-2008, 06:43 PM
alright guys shortly after I wrote yall I dropped off my truck at the only shop who has somewhat of a reputation for aftermarket air suspensions. The next day he said it was fixed and I picked it up. cruising home hittin switches the same problem came back, and this time I decided to take your advice and tackle this issue myself. I did everything you recommended and realized it was within the valves and not the wiring. I only have this problem with the passenger side of my truck so thats the only side I disassembled. opening the big red manifold inside had little bits of rust in it from my (steel) tank. the supply hose was connected on a port on the bottom of the tank, so I relocated it to a port on the top where the drivers side valves are located. Still I have the same problem. alright the drivers side valves look newer, they are both big red brand but the passenger side is a real faded pink color, I have no idea how old they are but how long do valves usually last? Would rust in my air lines still be goin to my valves? And finally would I be able to take my existing f.b.s.s. set up and re wire it to have a simple front to back set up with buying few or no new parts? and if so would there be any chance that the air distribution would be uneven? thanks guys.
britt@ridetech.com
02-25-2008, 10:38 PM
I would not change to a 2-way system (front/back only) for many reasons (when raising to ride height the pressures may not be even so the truck will lean, when going around corners the air will be pushed out of the bag that needs it into the bag that does not.)
The proper way to solve this issue is to address the tanks (as the rust is holding the valves open and that is where the rust originates). If you switch to a 2-way system the problem will appear again as the rust has not been addressed.
We started having our tanks coated on both the inside and the outside some time ago.
The easiest thing to do is to replace the tank(s). Beyond that you would need to clean the tank(s) and coat them with something to stop the rust (there's a gas tank repair out there somewhere that may work, but I have no experience with it so I cannot say for sure.)
This might be a good time to upgrade to an aluminum tank as you save a little weight and you will never see a rust problem again.
Chevylayinframe03
02-26-2008, 05:40 PM
I've already decided to upgrade to an aluminum tank and I am in the process right now of selecting the proper one, but over the weekend when I dissassembled my valves I cleaned them thoroughly (or so I thought) and reassembled them only to have the front passenger side bag filling as my compressor was running. Is it time for my valves to be replaced? Or is it possible that I may need to try it again? Could rust be in the air lines?
britt@ridetech.com
02-27-2008, 09:20 AM
It's most likely debris that has accumulated in the air lines. You'll have to completely clean the system (lines, valves, fittings, tank, etc.) when you install the new tanks to ensure no debris is still foating around. This can normally be accomplished with a blow gun on shop air. Just blow the hell out of the lines till nothing comes out.
Chevylayinframe03
02-27-2008, 06:10 PM
cool that sounds like a good weekend project being that my dad and his friend own a shop but what do i do about the gauge pressure showin that its even but the truck is leaning?
britt@ridetech.com
02-28-2008, 08:10 AM
Also, when you clean the system take the offending valve apart again. This time check the rubber on the bottom of the plunger, making sure it's smooth. Check the aluminum where the plunger seals. Make sure it's smooth and clean. Take pics and post or send them.
What parts are used in the front? (bags or Shockwaves, tubular control arms or stock, etc.) You say it lays frame, which means someone modified our kit to do so. I just want to make sure the installation is the same from side to side. If one bag is off a little you'll see a difference in pressure to raise it up.
One other thing to try is to deflate the rear, then raise the front to see if the pressures are the same (making sure the rear bags do no fill with air!). If your RR bag filled with air, your LF bag will read a higher pressure as the RR is pushing down on the LF bag. So my question is "is the pressure difference caused by improper installation, a false load created by a different air bag, or something we have not yet covered?"
darren@ridetech.com
02-28-2008, 08:42 AM
It's pretty common for a vehicle to require more pressure in one side than the other.
britt@ridetech.com
02-28-2008, 08:55 AM
Darren is correct. The pressures side-to-side may not be exactly even. My daily driver 02 S-10 takes 12psi more on the left side (probably due to the fuel tank being on the drivers side.)
Chevylayinframe03
08-19-2008, 10:54 PM
hey guys it's been a while and I've learned quiet a bit since then and wanted to post it in case someone else has the same problem. well the valves did have rust from the steel tank and I've upgraded to an alluminum one. works great have had no problems. Also it did stop lifting by itself before I installed it. The rust must have been in the lines and I raised the bags up and down til it blew out the exhaust valve and problem solved. As for the even pressures and uneven ride height, I was raising the truck a little on the left then a little on the right, then a little on the left repeatedly until I had it up. It looks cool but it did throw off my ride height and made the truck pull to the left or right as if it was out of alignment. I now raise the front up at once then the back get an even ride height every time. Thanks guys you been hella help.
darren@ridetech.com
08-20-2008, 10:01 AM
Thanks for the update!
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