62 Impala Posi Link ??????????

[Durg]

I saw the 61 Impala on the Muscle car show and they had the posi links on the swaybar but it was a splined type sway bar with seperate arms. I just bought the street challenge setup with the Muscle Bars and I called and you guys told me the Posi Links were not ready for the Impala yet. WHEN they are ready, will I be able to install them on the existing Muscle Bar with my kit or will I have to go to the splined bar? I didn't really want to spend any more on the kit but I really like the Posi Link setup. I have bent sway bar bolts just jacking up the car before. Also can I order a set of replacement upper control arm bushings for just one side of the strong arm ? Thanks, Kevin.

[darren@ridetech.com]

Kevin,
That is a prototype sway bar that we installed on that car. I don't think that the posilinks will work with the bar that you have. But if you would like to send back the bar you have and exchange it for the new bar when it's ready, we can do that. I'll a see if I can get an ETA on that for ya.

No problem on the bushing either, just give us a call.

[Durg]

I DEFINATELY want the posi link setup. Do I need to get a return authorization or what. I bought the entire Street Challenge kit through Summit. I just don't want to be in a position 2 months or so from now or whenever the prototype is ready, and talk to someone different and get stuck with the Musclebar and not be able to return it for the prototype. Do I need to call you guys and get this on record or what? I did call and have my new bushings on the way, Thanks. Let me know my options on returning this front sway bar, Thanks again.

[Durg]

Is that 61 done now? It looked like they were going to put a plate on top of the frame from the rear upper control arm crossmember forward down to the rear of the center X. It's the one where they used the dimple press on. Looks like the plate will be completely in the way of the rear floorboard driveshaft tunnel. Looks that way looking up under my 62 anyway. I guess I might just have to see what happens on the show.Thanks, Kevin.

[darren@ridetech.com]

I was watching the show yesterday at lunch and I was thinking the same thing about that bracket. I don't think that the car is done yet. I don't even think that we have send them the compressor kit yet.

Give me a call and I'll issue you a return #. 812-481-4706

[Durg]

I shipped the front sway bar back a couple weeks ago. Any update on availability of the splined front bar? Thanks, Kevin.

[darren@ridetech.com]

Stills working on it. I don't have a delivery date yet tho. I'll check on it.

[darren@ridetech.com]

Still in development, looks like it will be a few weeks yet. This is the first splined sway bar that we offer, so the R&D will be extensive.

[Durg]

Any progress updates on availability of the new front swaybar being ready to go ??? Thanks, Kevin.

[darren@ridetech.com]

Again, sorry for the delay. They have decided to make some changes to the design.

[Durg]

Thanks, 3 more weeks passed, any new updates ???

[Durg]

I'll check back in a couple weeks. Thanks for the update.

[darren@ridetech.com]

I thought that I already replied to this thread, but doens't look like it.

The 2nd prototype is finished, but we are still testing and looking into production methods. I'll post up some pics as soon as I can.

[Durg]

3-1/2 more weeks. Are we getting any closer on this front bar? I am kind of needing one soon. Thanks again, Kevin.

[darren@ridetech.com]

Christmas seems like an appropriate answer..... ;)
Just kidding Kevin. I'll dig up some answers, and maybe some pics and post back within the next day.

[darren@ridetech.com]

The latest prototype was bolted to our 62 yesterday and there it still needs some tweaking. Trying to get the most tire clearance possible out of it.

[beau@ridetech.com]

We have gotten the clearance on the sway bar that we need to clear the posi-link. Now we have to do samples for production runs and prove them, then release to production. We are on the down hill side of it now. Thanks Beau

[darren@ridetech.com]

Thanks for the update Beau.
FYI....Beau works in R&D here.

[darren@ridetech.com]

Check it out.....
We weren't crazy about using the splined sway bar, too easy to install with the arms misaligned. This will be a lot easier to install. Miles of tire clearance and will work with the newer steering boxes.

We are planning to replace the hex bolts on the arm with some button heads.

[Durg]

Are you changing to the button heads " just in case" the tire hits them? Is there a concern with contact? Ballpark, what are we looking at best guess for one of these setups to be at my door? Thanks for the photos and updates. It is encouraging. That must be a six banger in the mock up pictures?

[darren@ridetech.com]

Yep, that's a staight 6.....
The retail price on the kit will be around $400. The buttonheads will be for cosmetic only, you would have to run upwards of a 12" wheel before running into any tire clearance problems. Even if the tire were to rub it would be well behind the bolts.

[Durg]

Yep, that's a staight 6.....
The retail price on the kit will be around $400. The buttonheads will be for cosmetic only, you would have to run upwards of a 12" wheel before running into any tire clearance problems. Even if the tire were to rub it would be well behind the bolts.
I sent you back all the front Muscle bar stuff that came with my Street Challenge setup already. What am I going to have to pay for the difference? When would you guess they will be ready to ship? Thanks.

[darren@ridetech.com]

It will be an even swap for you. Production units should be available in a couple weeks. I'm gonna see if I can get you something sooner tho.... ;)

[Durg]

That would be great, Thanks, Kevin.

[beau@ridetech.com]

Just recieved all of the parts from production:), now we have to weld them and powdercoat them and ready for shipment. We are so close now I can taste it.:D

[darren@ridetech.com]

ughh..... I hate the taste of steel.

[darren@ridetech.com]

It shipped out today Kevin!!!

[Durg]

Wonderful !!! Is it coming with regular stabilizer links, posi links, or no links?

[darren@ridetech.com]

With PosiLinks.

[Durg]

Cool. I appreciate the service and communication on this deal. I guess that's why you guys are number 1 in the business. Thanks again.

[darren@ridetech.com]

If you think about it, take some pics of the bar installed. All of the images that I have are of the uncoated prototype.

[darren@ridetech.com]

Here it is......

http://www.ridetech.com/products/Chevy_59_64_MUSCLEbar_Front-1351-0.html

[beau@ridetech.com]

That's Nice!!!!!!!!!!

[Durg]

Looking forward to getting the new front bar. Here is my latest dilema: I got all the rear strong arms, panhard bar and strong arms installed and went for the sway bar tonight. Heres where the trouble starts.I bought the entire Street Challenge setup STR2300 which came with front and rear Muscle Bars. As we know I returned the front to get the newer splined version with the posi links. I got out all the parts for the rear and started looking at install instructions and found the following: Looks like I have most of the hardware but am missing the following items:1. The retainer bracket with the 2 7/16 bolts connected to it which goes on top of the frame channel for the brackets to bolt to. This is not a problem as my frame is made the way this piece is not needed and I have to use the two individual bolts. There are supposed to be 2 1" and 2 1.25 inch. I got 4 1 inch. Again, no big deal. I also did not get the shim that makes up for the difference in frame thickness where the 2 pieces of frame overlap. I did not get the thick spacers that MAY be needed to go between the dogbone and sway bar. All of this is minor compared to this next part. I am including a photo of the bar I got. It is not even close to the right one. I bought this kit from Summit and I believe the front and rear bars came in the same box. Both were wrapped in bubblewrap and I just unwrapped the rear one tonight. I will post the picture of it.It is obviously incorrect. The holes the bolts go through into the dogbones are vertical instead of horizontal. Best case scenario would be the bar is one of yours and I can ship it back. Worst case is Summit slipped a mongrel bar in and I will have to deal with them for resolution. Hopefully you can I.D. the bar from the picture as one of yours.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd252/kdurgin/Impala8-7-08001.jpg

It is gloss black powder coat like the brackets and dog bones but there is no Musclebar sticker on it. Let me know if I need to call you guys if this is getting confusing. There is a remote possibility when I shipped back the front bar for a swap the missing hardware COULD have gone back by accident but I really doubt it. Either way the bar is my big problem Thanks, Kevin.

[darren@ridetech.com]

That is the front bar. I wonder if you send us the rear bar back by accident? Maybe the box was labled wrong....or we send you two front bars. But you do have the correct hardware for the rear bar.

[darren@ridetech.com]

Just give a call when you get time. 812-481-4706

[Durg]

May be a front bar, but it is not for my car. Holes are 28" apart and the 62's mounts on the strong arms are around 39" apart. Either way, per our conversation it's headed back. I would like to confirm the RMA# is 7162? Thanks, Kevin.

[darren@ridetech.com]

your RMA # is 7132

[Durg]

S**T. I sent it out UPS with RMA7162 on it ! Guess I'm having problems with numbers today. Anyway, I put ATTN: Darren on it, so hopefully it won't mess you guys up too bad. Sorry. Should be there Wednesday. Thanks for all the help, Kevin.

[darren@ridetech.com]

I'll tell them to watch out for it.

[darren@ridetech.com]

Here is a shot of it installed on our display chassis with the height sensors.

http://www.ridetech.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=160&stc=1&d=1218555221

[Durg]

Here is a picture of it on my 62 SS.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd252/kdurgin/Impala8-12-08003.jpg

[Durg]

I love the new design and think the posi links are MUCH better than the regular long 3/8 bolt and bushings. The arm attachment method is also very simple and easy to install. I did not drill the 3rd 7/16 hole yet, but I will. The only problem I have is the T-bushing fit is bad. The hole diameter in the lower control arm is .687" and the T-bushing diameter is .605" The hole in the lower is .187" thick and the T-bushing step is .250" thick. When the posi link lower nut is tight, the posi link moves all around side to side and up and down. This will definately cause rattling and I would think, end up egging out the hole.Part number for the bushings on the list of materials is A1014. What do you think? Thanks, Kevin.

[Durg]

Photo of the other side:

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd252/kdurgin/Impala8-12-08002.jpg

[Durg]

Here it is:

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd252/kdurgin/Impala8-12-08001.jpg

[darren@ridetech.com]

Didn't I call you yesteday about that T-bushing yesterday? I swear that I talked to you, maybe I just left a message. We accidentally sent you the wrong one, I shipped out the correct ones yesterday.

[Durg]

I found the message on my cell today. I knew those t-bushings could not be right. Thanks for noticing and sending out the right ones. I appreciate it!

[Durg]

Received and installed the correct T-bushings and it's all good! Thanks for the super quick shipping. I think this front bar setup is great. Did you get the rear one in I sent back to get exchanged?Thanks again, Kevin.

[Durg]

Here is an above shot of the front suspension. I have removed the steering box but it cleared with plenty of room. It was the CPP 500 power box.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd252/kdurgin/Impala8-16-08002.jpg

[Durg]

your RMA # is 7132

Any news on sending me the correct rear muscle bar? My RMA is 7132 but I accidentally put 7162 on package. UPS tracking number is 1ZE3F0380310621022. Flunky signed for it on 8/13. Thanks, Kevin.

[darren@ridetech.com]

Your rear bar is on backorder. Sorry that I didn't tell you, just found out myself. It is scheduled to be here any day tho.

[Durg]

Again, Thanks for the info.

[darren@ridetech.com]

It shipped out yesterday.

[Durg]

Well.... it has been a little while and I am finally assembling all the chassis components for real now. I have a couple questions. 1. On the height sensors ? Won't one side be rotating clockwise during compression and the other side be rotating counter clockwise during compression? Does the ECU care? The directions show which way they need to rotate and I did not see where it says they can be different side to side? Maybe I have just confused myself. Also 2nd question. I know the rubber "Heim" ends supplied with the sensors to connect from the arm to the a-frame will flex if they are not moving in the same plane but I was wondering how many cycles/years they will last? I was thinking about threading the 1/4" rod and using a female heim joint on the bottom. I'm guessing you guys don't feel it is necessary or they would have came with heims? Let me know. I'm posting a picture so you can see the progress. Thanks for all the help so far! Kevin.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd252/kdurgin/12-2-08001.jpg

[britt@ridetech.com]

Durg,

Level Sensor Orientation:
The level sensors can be mounted in any orientation. When you set up the system you must "teach" the ecu the sensors (by raising and lowing the vehicle. check the instructions.) When you do the learning procedure the ECU records the min and max voltage of each sensor. It can then reset the bar graphs based on these voltages so all bars in the graph are used and so they travel in the correct direction.

Level Sensor Rod End Links:
The sensors are provided with rubber end links to allow for deflection. When we first started using these sensors I tested heim ends with catastrophic results. The solid metal ends would transfer all the energy of a bump through the shaft to the sensor. The force would shear the mounting tabs on the sensor.
I strongly suggest using the stock rubber end links.
-Britt-

[Durg]

Rubber ends it is then. It's nice being able to get answers quickly like this.Thanks for the info once again.

[britt@ridetech.com]

No problem. We try to think of these things before you guys do.
-Britt-

[Durg]

Next question: On the lower a-frame, mounting the rubber end links for the height sensors, would you advise against drilling and tapping into the lower tube and plate of the a-arm? Should I just weld on one of the tabs provided? One other question: If I am going to set my ride height on the front at somewhere near 2/3 of total travel, should I set my height sensors level at ride height or level 1/2 way between ride height and bottomed ( where I will set it when parked) When I have them level at ride height and drop it down, the arm almost "cams over" the center point and stresses the sensor itself and doesn't want to come back down. I think if I set them at level 1/2 way in between ride height and bottomed, when I jack the car off the ground and everything hangs down, the arm may be too straight down and stress everything in that direction? Are you following this? or am I rambling? Thanks, Kevin.

[britt@ridetech.com]

It's fine to drill and tap the lower arm. I normally do it that way.

The level sensor has an electrical range of 90-degrees from center (45-degrees in each direction). If it travels out of this range the ECU does not know where it is and will not work correctly.

The most important thing is that the level sensor does not travel past the 45-degree limit when at full extension and full compression. Ride height is normally close to the center, but it's not important that it be there.

You'll see on the level sensor there are tabs on the part that moves and roll pins on the part that does not move. These are your limits. The tabs can "hit" the roll pins, but then cannot go past. Make sense?

[darren@ridetech.com]

Yea, forget ride height....just make sure you don't go beyond the sensor travel limits on compression or extension. It's that simple.

[Durg]

So the full range of my suspension travel better not move the arm over 90 degrees. I better keep an eye on them if jacked up and suspension is hanging down because 90 degrees is not enough distance to take up full travel from bottomed ( which it will be when parked at shows etc. ) to " fully " extended ( On stands ) Correct?

[britt@ridetech.com]

you are correct. . .from fully deflated to fully extended the level sensor cannot rotate more than 90-degrees as shown by the indexing tabs on the level sensor.

To achieve this you may have to change the linkage arm and/or pivot point of the arm. It just takes trial and error before you find the correct location. I've used 3M double stick trim tape to hold the sensor to the frame so I can move it around a few times to find the correct location.

***NOTE: the sensor does not have to travel all the way to full "lock". The ECU needs to see at least a 3V change from min to max (the sensor provides a 4V change overall). So if you come up a little short it's much better than going too far.***

[Durg]

Having bought my entire Street Challenge setup for my 62SS awhile ago( Pre Air Pod ) I would like to swap out my 5 gallon steel tank for an aluminum one. Can I get the individual aluminum tank part number that directly replaces the one in my kit? Thanks, Kevin.

[darren@ridetech.com]

It's the 34 x 7 tank right? TANK5100 is the aluminum version.

[Durg]

It's the 34 x 7 tank right? TANK5100 is the aluminum version.


What's that mean 34" long x 7" Dia. ???

[darren@ridetech.com]

Yes..........

[Durg]

Yes..........

Didn't know if it was 34" long with 7 ports or something. Just wanted to be sure. Thanks.

[darren@ridetech.com]

Yes..........


Wasn't trying to be a smart ass with the .......
A reply must be at least 10 characters so I added the periods.

[Durg]

[QUOTE=Darren;16705]Wasn't trying to be a smart ass with the .......
QUOTE]

Good, I didn't want to have to fly out there to Indiana to get that cleared up....... Thanks again, Durg.

[darren@ridetech.com]

Bring it........

[amber@ridetech.com]

Easy, boys...don't make me put the smack down on both of you.

:)

[Tony@AirRide]

man Im smellin a little WWF comin on

[Durg]

It will be a while before I actually need the tank but here is an update photo of the chassis.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd252/kdurgin/12-22-08011.jpg

[Tony@AirRide]

Nice lookin chassis!:D I cant believe Darren ( Mr. A-Body) even knew what to sell you for that sexy B body!:D