1964 F100 with Mustang II

[Rosati]

I have driven my truck for about 2 years on a Fatman Mustang II with coilsprings. I recently decided to add Shockwaves all around and ordered SKW1001-LUCA-DA for the front and SKW8000-TRI-SS-DA for the rear.
After installing the arms and the SKW, I turned to hub to check for rubbing and my caliper banjo bolt rubs the bag!!!!
No matter how I adjust the upper arm, I cannot get the same turning radius as what I had with the springs. What can I do?
I don't want to have to make 10 point turns just to get out of a parking spot!

[darren@ridetech.com]

What caliper do you have. Can you post a picture?

[Rosati]

These are the GM calipers supplied with the Fatman hub to hub kit. As you can see, the bolt is already fairly close to the springs at ride height.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=6427&pictureid=56717

[darren@ridetech.com]

That may be your problem. The GM single piston calipers are huge!
Did you post a picture? I don't see one.

[Rosati]

Yes they are huge. I had some rubbing on the coilspring during hard turning in the parking lot, but very rarely.
Heres a pic of the bag setup with the rotor straight and upper arm adjusted all the way outboard.
http://www.ridetech.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=27&pictureid=135


And here is the same setup turned to the right until the bolt touches.
http://www.ridetech.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=27&pictureid=134

Your catalog or website says nothing about not running GM calipers (common on the ECI big brake kits) Page 48 says "Mustang II suspensions with upper "hat" mount" use SKW1001.

What do I need to do to get more clearance?

[Milkcrate]

Do you have the rack centered meaning the same travel from center to driver's side and center to passenger's side?

Those of us that build Mustang II based (note the word "based") suspension are all different from one to another. I'd suggest calling Fatmans for the solution. Since they also offer Air Ride parts with their kits, they should know the answer.

[Rosati]

No, the rack is not centered, but utilizes a rack extender on the right side. Steering throw is equal from left to right. My issue is more about the fact I cannot utilize the full throw of the steering without the banjo bolt hitting the bag.
Fatman is my first call this afternoon.

[darren@ridetech.com]

Let us know what you come up with.

[Rosati]

I spoke with a rep at Fatmans yesterday. Ha was amazed that I was able to use a shockwave in the front end I bought from them. He asked me how I was able to get it to bolt up because they use a proprietary shockwave from you guys that they mount upside down.
He told me I would have to use a different brake bracket and 82-87 Camaro intermediate calipers.
I think the lower A-arm I got from you guys needs to shock location moved inboard more.
Why is it where it is? Who's kit did you guys mock up the arm for? Height's? TCi?
I know the "Big Bore" is a fairly standard kit, but I shouldn't have to replace my brake system after only two years.

[darren@ridetech.com]

The rep from Fatman's thought you had one of their coilover type front ends, which would not have the upper hat, just an eye mount.

This is a standard dimension Mustang II lower control arm, they are all the same, unless narrowed of course. Moving the lower mount inboard would increase the motion ratio, effectively apply more weight to the spring. This would require more air pressure to lift the car and possibly even a larger diameter bellow depending on how much you move it.

[Kevin W]

The problem with the big bore caliper is that the banjo bolt comes in from the side. It will even hit a coilspring in certain instances. Most manufactures use the intermediate caliper whether you get a Ford or Chevy bolt pattern. This caliper has the banjo bolt on the bottom so there isnt interference. Fatmans uses the big bore caliper with their Ford pattern/non airpsping kits only. The reason is that it will give you 65% more brakes for the same money. It wont work with the Chev pattern without a special hub or bigger rotor. There are 2 solutions;1)change to the intermediate caliper and bracket, or 2)Wilwood has a big bore replacement caliper that has the banjo bolt on the bottom and will provide superior braking. If you try and leave your existing brakes as is, you will probably end up in a wreck because as you turn the wheel the bag will push the caliper outward resulting in lost brakes and it will rub a hole in your airspring.
Are you running dropped spindles also?

[Rosati]

No drop spindles, trucks low enough now!
I have received new Magnum brackets from Fatmans (cast c shaped brackets) and I just bought a set of 85 Camaro calipers. I am about to bolt tese up in a few minutes to see if I get the clearance I need.
Will the Wilwood caliper need a special bracket?
Can I use anyone elses multibore calipers with these brackets?

[Kevin W]

The Wilwood caliper will work with your original bracket. The caliper is a single piston caliper that Wilwood produces as a OEM replacement caliper. If you have the new bracket and caliper I would just leave it as is.
If you are still running the coilspring "top" from fatmans, I would put another bead of weld around the shock "tit" as now you are concentrating all the frontend weight on that small area. Keep a eye on it to see it if is bending.