Issue with e3 and tank psi

[STOOF]

Hey,

Im running an e3 setup, no level sensors.

So far i only have my rear bags installed so i have not calibrated yet.

From what i see i need to be at around 140psi to be around stock height. And my driving height, which is a decent drop, is ~110psi.

My issue is that the ecu limits the compressors from filling the tank past 150psi. So when im aired out and want to go up, the most itll go is up to 120ish since the tank loses pressure, then i have to wait for the tank to refill to get up to 140.

Now mind you this is only with the rear, once the fronts are in, i suspect it wont even be able to get to 120 from being aired out.

Im pretty sure going to 200psi in the tank will eliminate this issue, but how can i do that if the ecu stops it at 150?

I guess instead of grounding the compressors to the ecu i can just ground them to the frame and use the relays and a pressure switch instead?

Appreciate any help on this.

[britt@ridetech.com]

What vehicle is this in? Looking at your previous posts I'm assuming you have a 5 gallon tank (you stated you have two Viair compressors).
What bags do you have (normal bags or Shockwaves)?
Stock control arms, or tubular?
Did you remove and re-install the control arms? A lot of times the control arms are too tight and induce a bind on the suspension thereby increasing the pressure required to attain proper height.

Without knowing the vehicle I can only give you generalities:
Normal pressures at ride height are between 85-110 front, 45-90 rear.

Our systems are designed to go from fully deflated to ride height at least once. Normally the compressors turn on as the vehicle is inflating as we turn the compressors on at 135psi.

The systems are not designed to go from fully deflated to fully inflated as you would need a huge storage tank to do so. It's possible, but not practical.

The e3 limits system pressure to 150psi as our systems do not require more than that. You cannot run the compressors off relays as the e3 will throw compressor error codes. We watch the compressors to know the fill rate and a lot of other information (like if the compressor gets old and starts pulling too much amperage we can alert you of this and save the charging system in the vehicle.)

[STOOF]

2008 Infiniti G37s

Bagyard Bombers (bags)
5 gallon aluminum tank
2x viair 400c
4way bigred valve manifold
ridepro e3

stock control arms, didnt remove them.

[STOOF]

and i can see that its not designed to go from fully deflated to fully inflated, thats alot of air, but if my ride height is 110, i dont think its gonna even make that.

[rodney@ridetech.com]

When you deflate, are you letting the air out until the car stops moving, or until there is no air in the bags?

[STOOF]

When you deflate, are you letting the air out until the car stops moving, or until there is no air in the bags?


Until the car stops moving. I hit the ground at around 30psi.

Is it possible its needing more pressure to lift the rear since the front is still stock height?

Heres a video and pic for reference.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Spnxng5Qhhg

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c115/xxstufferxx/Air%20Build/DSCN1961.jpg

[britt@ridetech.com]

The front being higher than the rear will cause some extra pressure to raise, but not too much.

It's more likely that the designer of the suspension used a smaller air spring that fit, but required a higher pressure to attain ride height. From a control system design point of view this is fine, if only one end of the vehicle requires a lot of pressure. If both ends require higher than normal pressures you'll need more air to raise it to ride height.

I'd get the front put together and see what pressures are required to attain ride height. At that point you'll know if you need more air.

[Tony@AirRide]

good god son that thing hammers out in the ass end! Looks good man... be sure to stick some photos up of the whole thing hammered out.

[STOOF]

The front being higher than the rear will cause some extra pressure to raise, but not too much.

It's more likely that the designer of the suspension used a smaller air spring that fit, but required a higher pressure to attain ride height. From a control system design point of view this is fine, if only one end of the vehicle requires a lot of pressure. If both ends require higher than normal pressures you'll need more air to raise it to ride height.

I'd get the front put together and see what pressures are required to attain ride height. At that point you'll know if you need more air.

Yeah thats what i decided to do, ill just wait until i get the fronts in and see whats what.

Just so i know, lets say the fronts do require high pressure also, what would i be able to do? Is there a way i can make the ecu stop the compressors at 200psi?


good god son that thing hammers out in the ass end! Looks good man... be sure to stick some photos up of the whole thing hammered out.

haha thanks. I know you shoulda saw the look on my face when it hit the ground :eek: :D hahah

Once i get the fronts in ill be sure to post full pics.

[STOOF]

Finally got the fronts in, and told the manufacturer about the issue with the rears so they made be a spacer for the rear bags.

My rear ride height is now ~80 instead of ~110, and i still lay frame :D

Front ride height is ~90

So basically i dont really have this issue now, i can reach my ride height from being all the way aired out.


One thing i have been getting is a leak error on all 4 corners, but i dont have any leaks afaik, im gonna check over all the connections again to make sure.


Heres a couple pics (still waiting for my CF grill)

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c115/xxstufferxx/DSC_0254_3_2_1_0_tonemapped.jpg

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c115/xxstufferxx/baggedsig.jpg

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c115/xxstufferxx/Air%20Build/DSC_0061.jpg

[britt@ridetech.com]

It looks damn good!

The leak errors are triggered if the system decreases in air pressure after the ignition is turned off. So when you turn the ignition off it records the pressure. When you turn the ignition back on it looks at the current pressure. If the system is more then 10psi from where it was when the key was turned off it tells you in the form of a leak error.

Depending on the software version you can turn the error reporting screen off. Just go into the menu and go to System Setup. You can then turn "hide errors" to OFF.

The errors will still be logged, and the error icon will pop up, but the error screens won't pop up and get in the way.

[STOOF]

It looks damn good!

The leak errors are triggered if the system decreases in air pressure after the ignition is turned off. So when you turn the ignition off it records the pressure. When you turn the ignition back on it looks at the current pressure. If the system is more then 10psi from where it was when the key was turned off it tells you in the form of a leak error.

Depending on the software version you can turn the error reporting screen off. Just go into the menu and go to System Setup. You can then turn "hide errors" to OFF.

The errors will still be logged, and the error icon will pop up, but the error screens won't pop up and get in the way.


That makes sense and all, but it doesnt seem thats how my system works.

To test, last night i parked my car and left each corner at exactly 80psi. I went out just now to check where its at, 10 hours later, my front left was at 43(so i guess i do have a big leak there) and the left rear was at 65, but NO ERRORS. lol

If i air it out(preset 1) itll usually be at 12 and 14 in front and 16 in both rears, its def not 10psi less, most cases its still the same and itll tell me i have leaks in all 4 corners.

[STOOF]

Im STILL having leak error issues.

It tells me i have leaks on all 4 corners when the psi doesnt change. Sometimes it says slow, sometimes fast. If i turn the car off for a minute and right back on it tells me i have leaks in all 4.

And if i do have a big change in psi, usually sitting for over a day, it doesnt have any errors.

This is reallyyy annoying.

[britt@ridetech.com]

I think you have early version software. If you'd like, call a sales guy, get a return number and I'll re-program to the latest and greatest (best of all with the new software you can hide errors so they don't annoy you.)

[STOOF]

Well i dont know if i have the absolute newest software, but i can hide the errors.

But honestly thats even more annoying because then the little triangle just flashes in the corner forever.

These errors dont come on randomly, they happen almost every single time. Its about 99%.

[britt@ridetech.com]

If you want, call the sales/tech guys and get an RMA number. Send in the ECU and the display. I'll check it on our equipment and see if I can replicate the problem.

I'll also update the software to the latest version.

When you check the pressures are you starting the vehicle or are you just turning on the ignition?

Like I stated the e3 is hard coded in software to throw the code ONLY if it sees a change of 10psi or greater from when the ignition was shut off to when it is turned back on. So it IS seeing that much change. I'm just wondering if the 5V is taking a little longer to fire up, which would give false readings when the e3 checks the pressures (it check VERY quickly after the ignition is turned on, so if the battery is a little low, or something is odd with the charging system you may see these issues.)

[02Mustng]

I think that is the most INFINITY cars I have seen in a single drive way! :P Your ride looks good!