panhard rod

[tribalsplash]

I have the ART parellel 4-link for my Ranger Splash and in the kit I was sent a weld-in panhard rod. I was recently looking in the catalogue and noticed there is a bolt-in panhard rod for Ford 8" and 9" rearends. I have and 8.8" rear in my splash, would this rod work for me or should I just stay with the one that came in the kit? Any help is appreciated.

[darren@ridetech.com]

I would just use the weld on bracket that you have. It will enable you to keep the bar as long a possible to minimize side to side movement.

[tribalsplash]

Out of curiosity, would that bolt-on panhard rod work for my set-up?


Also, whats the best configuration for the weld-on piece? In otherwords how does it go on in a ranger?

[darren@ridetech.com]

Yea, we would use the same bracket for the F 150. I am trying to find some pics of an install we did on a ranger.

[tribalsplash]

Pics would be great.

Is there really that much side to side movement difference between the weld-on and bolt-on rods? I thought the panhard rod was there to eliminate side to side movement? Or is it because of the length difference between the rods making the axle move side to side through suspension travel? So the longer the panhard rod the less side to side movement during suspension travel, right? Any other cure besides a triangulated 4-link?

[tribalsplash]

Darren, did you ever find any pics of the rear Ranger set up?

[darren@ridetech.com]

I looked but we only have pics of the front of that truck. You are correct about the length of the PH bar, the shorter the bar the more side to side movement. Also you just want to make sure that you have it parallel with the ground at ride height.

I don' t think your frame width is wide enough for a triangulated for link. Don' t forget that your center section is cast and can' t be welded to.