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Ride Pro E Trouble

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  • Ride Pro E Trouble

    I bought a ride pro e system and have had NOTHING but BAD LUCK with it, I did the "grounding" thing and changed out the pressure sensors etc. and it just doesn't work... I have talked to other people that have had similar luck with this system, has anyone else had trouble? Is this system junk? Is there any fixes? I have big red air valves and the best advice I get from ridetech helpline is to plug the exaust ports and drill small holes in them to "slow" the deflation... I spent big money for fast valves... I tried it and it didn't work.. I need help...

  • #2

    My name is Britt, and I (among a few others) developed both the E1 and E2/LevelPro control systems. You mentioned that the tech staff here told you to slow down the system by choking the exhaust ports. This can help a system that is too fast, but I don't think that's the problem with your system at this time (though BigReds in a 39 is a little quick for an E1).

    Do the pressure readings fluctuate? If not, what do the pressure readings read? Do the pressure readings fluctuate while the vehicle is sitting still? Do the pressure readings fluctuate only when the compressor comes on?

    The E1 control system relies solely upon the pressure readings to achieve the correct vehicle height. If the pressure readings fluctuate for ANY reason, the vehicle will not reach the desired ride height. It will satisfy the pressure criteria (which is exactly what it is supposed to do), but it will not be at the desired height because what the ECU "sees" as pressure, is not the real pressure in the air springs. In EVERY case I have worked on, the pressure readings are affected by poor grounds.

    I have teched quite a few of these systems (as I should), and have had very few vehicles defeat me (when I designed the E1 I knew it would work on only about 80% of the vehicles out there, as the technology just wasn't good enough to work on everything. Hence the E2/LevelPro.)

    If you'd like, you may call me direct at (812) 481-4714 and we can discuss your issues. We will be back in the office Wed, Jan 2nd. Should you get my voicemail, please leave a message with a return number and I will get back to you as quickly as I can.

    Britt A. Marolf
    Product Development Manager
    Air Ride Technologies


    • #3

      Do the pressure readings fluctuate? Yes HORRIBLY!!! Do the pressure readings fluctuate while the vehicle is sitting still? Again YES!!! Do the pressure readings fluctuate only when the compressor comes on? No, the pressure readings go crazy ALL the time sitting still, air compressor runningn it doesn't matter, I've even tried pulling the air lines from the sending units, also tried a new VDO unit (like ones supplied with kit) it also fluctuated, I Isolated the sending panel with wood as sugested that didn't work I tried grounding to the frame that didn't work, I tried grounding to the battery that didn't work I tried both frame and battery, that didn't work, I'm at wits end!!! and BTW this is a 1960 Chevy Biscayne it has the strong arms all around...I bought the ARR20600-LUCA the ARF10600-LUCA the ARC4700e for a grand total of $3,343 and that amounts to a $3,343 paperweight... and That doesn't include the instalation costs... so I Hope this can be resolved...


      • #4
        The issue is 100% ground related. I've seen this quite a bit and I have had no problems in resolving this issue. The problem is the VDO sensors are resistive type, so any changes in the ground plane will effect the readings of the sensors.

        Simply placing a block of wood under the sensor mount will make the problem worse as the sensors have no ground reference when this is done. The proper way to fix this is to provide each sensor with a solid ground.

        As the sensors do not have a ground tab, I normally solder a flat spade terminal to the sensor body and daisy chain the sensors to a single ground wire. Run that ground wire to the ECU ground, and run that wire directly to the battery. Make sure the compressor is grounded to the frame a good distance from the battery. This makes the frame and battery a "filter". Any dramatic changes to the ground plane will be "evened out" by the "filter".

        I have a diagram to illustrate this. If you'd like the diagram drop me an e-mail ( and I'll send it off to you. If you want to discuss this please call the shop (812-481-4787) and ask for me (I'll be out of the office until Jan. 12th at the Consumer Electronics Show. If you want to talk to me, drop me an e-mail and I'll give you my cell#.)

        Have no fear, we'll get the system working properly!



        • #5
          I took the trunk apart again to rework the grounding and I was mistaken, the sending units aren't vdo's they are a gold color and have two lines of numbers on them the upper numbers is 34-04 and the lower numbers are 999 010 009, the reason I am bringing this up is that I have heard rumors these sending units don't work properly with the ride pro e system...if this is true please let me know my options.


          • #6
            Give me a call. 812-481-4706


            • #7
              OK got the new VDO senders in and the readings were still bouncing up and down, so I took them back out, soldered spade connectors to them and then daisy chained the ground from the computer up front to one,(having to remove the glove box kick panel seats and carpet from the car) then from that one to each of the four and off the last one to the battery, all the senders are in the trunk along with the compressor that is grounded to the battery, that seemed to settle it down a bit but the read out is still jumping 3 pounds on each of the 4 corners, so now what? Oh and btw I have the senders mounted to the stainless steel panel and that panel is mounted to wood Isolating it from the chassis ground. I'd like to get this resolved before assembling the car again... Is there hope or am I going to have to just "live" with this problem or cough up $500 + for the new E2 system that works?


              • #8
                There is hope. You've almost gotten it licked. The VDO sensors can bounce slighlty depending on the vehicle (I've seen EVERYTHING when it comes to different cars!) but normally only a couple of psi.

                Since your compressor is grounded directly to the battery the only thing you can do to better your situation is to move the ground of the sensors to a chassis ground far away from the battery. Normally, the battery is in the front, and the compressor is in the rear, so we ground the compressor to the chassis, and the ECU/sensors to the battery. This makes the chassis and the battery a "filter" for the noise.

                Right now you have the ground of the compressor and the ground of the ECU/sensors touching at the negative terminal of the battery, so you are getting no "filtering" from the chassis/battery.

                I'd ground the ECU/sensors to the chassis at the front (I assume the ECU is under the dash). Use the kickpanel, or something solid and leave the compressor grounded directly to the battery.

                As for your block of wood for isolation: you can leave it in, or take it out. By the time the ground travels through the steel of the sensor, the brass of the fitting, and the stainless steel of the bracket it isn't conducting much (hence the need for ground terminals on all the sensors.)


                • #9
                  3 or 4 psi is pretty normal. I wouldn't be too concerned with that.


                  • #10
                    I got the readings to settle down to a couple of pounds but I set the ride height at start up and the car doesn't rise correctly, the back rises too high on both and the front cant decide what it wants to do, one time high one time low, neither side will equal out.


                    • #11
                      Does the vehicle rise to the correct pressures? (Look at the digital display panel, raise the vehicle, and see if it's close to the preset values) If it has enough air supply the system has to rise to within +/- 12psi (this is controlled in the software. if it has too little air supply the valves will continue to "click" for 26 seconds, then turn off. This tells me the ECU is trying to get to the preset, but does not have enough air to move the vehicle.)

                      Once we get this sorted out, we can get it to attain the proper ride height.
                      If you want to discuss in person, you can give me a ring (812) 481-4714.


                      • #12
                        Yes the tank was full, The drivers front usually rises higher around 15 psi higher the passenger side goes lower about 8 psi the rear both go around 5 to 8 psi higher, If I lower and turn the ignition on it rises that way, if I then shut it off and use the keyfob it will settle down but still 5 to 10 psi high on all corners, and then I turn the key on and the right drops the left rises and it's back to how it was, I have set the computer over and over thinking I had set the program wrong, I even gave up on getting the car level right now and went to a generic stance about ride height, 80 psi front 50 rear. I want to be able to get in the car after a show and be able to turn the key have it come to ride height and be able to drive off knowing the car isn't all out of whack, throwing my alignment off and wearing out tires, sound do-able?


                        • #13
                          absolutly do-able. Give me a ring tomorrow (monday) and we can discuss this over the phone. If you can, I'd like to have the car in the background as I can usually hear what is going on. If I hear something strange I can normally point it out.

                          It all sounds like it's working correctly. However, I want to be sure.


                          • #14
                            Still no good, and I'm fed up, I'm just going to disable the stupid computer go to some analog gauges maybe hidden in a console or something...I'll use the switches to increase and decrease the ride height and try to black out the digital gauges...I NOW KNOW WHY YOU COMPLETLY DELETED THE RIDE PRO E SYSTEMS hope you guys have better luck with the ride pro e2


                            • #15
                              Please don't give up on me now. The E1 system will work, I just need you to call me so I can hear the car in the background. I can only do so much over the internet.