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  #21  
Old 11-19-2009, 12:28 PM
02Mustng 02Mustng is offline
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CDC compressor

No, the filter is exactly where its suppose to be, I did not remove it or change where it was. I have the 1/4" tubing going on the opposite side of the compressor via an 1/8" adapter and have a pressure switch on it as well. I will post updated pictures shortly. The CDC compressor that I purchased from ride tech is on the right side in the pictures. My original one that I purchased earlier from another guy is on the left side. That one works without problems and does not make any funny noises. I will do some further testing before moving forward with the RMA to ensure I did not miss anything. But I won't be able to work on it again until Monday or Tuesday of next week. Right now, I have an air leak that I have to locate. It looses pressure over night in the amount of 25PSI per day.

Last edited by 02Mustng; 11-19-2009 at 12:31 PM.
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  #22  
Old 11-19-2009, 04:39 PM
amber@ridetech.com amber@ridetech.com is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02Mustng View Post
...we turned on the compressors again after seperating them on seperate circuits. The compressor CDC one that came from ride tech is acting funny...
Just to clarify...was it working all right before you separated them?
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  #23  
Old 11-19-2009, 07:27 PM
02Mustng 02Mustng is offline
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compressors

I couldn't really tell you. I didn't bother to listen to the noise they both made until I had all parts finally installed after the broken digital sensor. This is the 2nd time only that I had them running and pumping air. Once I had everything put together and let it run, I decided to listen for any uncommon noises from each of the compressors. The CDC compressor that was shipped from ridetech is making funny grinding noises and its not quiet either. Like somehting inside went out of sync, like a bearing came loose or something.
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  #24  
Old 11-20-2009, 02:16 PM
02Mustng 02Mustng is offline
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Problem #3: Leaks

What is the best method to ensure there is no leak between the fittings and the plastic tubing that connects the selenoids, air compressors, splitter fittings, and the air tanks?
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  #25  
Old 11-20-2009, 02:44 PM
britt@ridetech.com britt@ridetech.com is offline
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make sure to cut the plastic air line with a straight edge (our tubing cutter is recommended: http://www.ridetech.com/shop/index.p...roduct_id=5827)

Once the airline is cut straight and not pinched you simply push the airline into the fitting all the way, then give a slight pull. The fitting will grab the airline and seal it tight.

Most often the leak is located at the thread of the fittings. Be sure to use teflon tape on everything except the air pressure sensors (the e1 pressure sensors need a good ground to work correctly. If you use teflon tape you eliminate the ground and the sensors will not work.)
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  #26  
Old 01-26-2010, 03:27 PM
02Mustng 02Mustng is offline
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I am back!

Ok. So I am back after taking a month off and enjoying the holidays etc. Time to get down and dirty and back to business. So, already being the new year and I have a new problem. The remote control unit does not work. I have an antenna that plugs into the ECU with two(2) remotes. They use to work back early in November last year but now, not sure why it does not work. Haven't changed anything. How do I reprogram the remotes so that they work with the ECU? If I can't reprogram them, whats next to troubleshoot? The ECU itself appears to be working, It has power. And using the console digital panel I can press the buttons and the pressure of air escapes and fills the air bags. The remote however, pressing any type of button does not do anything. Any ideas?
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  #27  
Old 01-26-2010, 04:36 PM
britt@ridetech.com britt@ridetech.com is offline
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You most likely need to replace the batteries in the key fobs. When you learned the remotes into the system the keyfob identities were physically burned to memory in the ECU. So if you were to remove power for 10 years, and plug it back in the ECU will still remember the remotes. The remote batteries, however, would be dead. Normally they need to be replaced every 2-3 years.

It's a little deceiving as when the remote batteries start to fade they will still light the LED on the remote, but they don't have enough power to send the signal to the antenna.

You can find them at your local Wal-Mart or larger store that carries watch batteries.
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  #28  
Old 01-26-2010, 05:02 PM
02Mustng 02Mustng is offline
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how to program a remote for use with the ECU?

Ok. That is the first thing that I did. I replaced the battery but it still didn't work. How do I attach the remote to the ECU, what are the steps to have the ECU recognize the remote?

Quote:
Originally Posted by britt@ridetech.com View Post
You most likely need to replace the batteries in the key fobs. When you learned the remotes into the system the keyfob identities were physically burned to memory in the ECU. So if you were to remove power for 10 years, and plug it back in the ECU will still remember the remotes. The remote batteries, however, would be dead. Normally they need to be replaced every 2-3 years.

It's a little deceiving as when the remote batteries start to fade they will still light the LED on the remote, but they don't have enough power to send the signal to the antenna.

You can find them at your local Wal-Mart or larger store that carries watch batteries.
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  #29  
Old 01-26-2010, 05:49 PM
britt@ridetech.com britt@ridetech.com is offline
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Follow these steps:

1-Press the Air Ride logo button 3 times (take it slow on this step. if you press it too fast you go to another programming deal). The logo light will illuminate after the third press.
2-press button #1 on the first remote. The logo light will turn off for a second, then turn back on.
3-press button #1 on the second remote. Again, the logo light will turn off for a second then back on.
4-wait ten seconds and the logo light will go out. The two remotes are now learned into the ECU.

The remotes will only work when the ignition is off (yellow wire has no power going to it). This is done as a safety feature so you don't accidentally trigger the vehicle to deflate while driving.
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  #30  
Old 02-03-2010, 11:40 AM
02Mustng 02Mustng is offline
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programming remotes?

Few questions:

1) How do you programm a remote? I have two of them. Programming in terms of the set levels to pump the air pressure?
2) Can you program the ECU to pump the air into all the wheels to a certain height when it turns on?
3) Can you program the ECU to pump out the air when the engine shuts down to a certain level or all the way to the ground?

I have tested the air bags and all is working well. I plan to have them installed this weekend on Saturday which will be an all day job as I still have to run all the tubes to each of the wheel wells.

I will take pictures throughout the process and post them here.

Thanks!
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